THE GRAND CANAL - BARROW LINE

The Grand Canal, which connects Dublin with the Shannon, runs for 120 km. Work began on the project in 1756, and after many difficulties, the connection to the Shannon was finally made in 1803. Passenger boats used the Canal until the 1850s and the cargo barges ran until 1960. The Barrow Line, a branch of this magnificent waterway, was finished in the early 1790s and runs for 46 km from Lowtown to Athy where it becomes part of the Barrow River Navigation. The imposing Grand Canal Hotel dominates Robertstown, next to Lowtown. This beautiful building now serves as a museum, containing a restaurant - open at weekends.

The tow path of the Milltown Feeder Canal, 3 km west of Lowtown, provides a lovely 8 km walk. The walk curves around the foot of the Hill of Allen (240 km). Site of an ancient fort, the hill commands wonderful views over the canal and tranquil countryside. The path continues into a hollow, known as Polardstown Fen, a rare and rich habitat for the flora and fauna of the Irish wetlands. The Seven Springs of the Fen supplies crystal clear water to the feeder, a unique canal feature.

The old canal with its elegant bridges and locks is a joy to cruise. The mixture of bog and farmland on both banks harbour wild fowl and wild flowers in equal profusion. Ballyteigue Castle, on the west bank, dates form medieval times and was a frontier tower house between the native Irish and the English garrisons of the Pale - a constantly changing area round Dublin where the king's writ ran. The canal continues, swinging east and west, with a carry across a lovely small aqueduct which bridges a tributary of the River Slate. The bare open landscape now gives way to coniferous forest, where, if you cut the engine, the peace is palpable.

The stretch between Rathangan and Monasterevan passes through a double lock, under Spencer's Bridge and then passes a thatched cottage at Umeras Bridge, a fine example of rural architecture that is enjoying something of a revival in many parts of the country.

Monasterevan boasts a network of canal channels, a fine lifting bridge, lovely warehouses and a 3-storey building which served as a hotel during the halcyon days of river commerce. A thriving brewery and distillery town in the 19th century, it is now a peaceful and popular coarse angling centre. The 18th century charter school is one of many graceful Georgian buildings, while the medical centre is housed in a mansion where Count John McCormack, the celebrated Irish tenor, once lived. It occupies the site of a 6th century church and a 12th century Cistercian abbey. An aqueduct, which crosses the Barrow here, is just one example of the many superb engineering features in Monastereven.

The Barrow Line now passes over the River Barrow and then runs parallel to the river it will eventually join in Athy. Another branch of the canal, which ran to Mountmellick in Co. Laois (approximately 25 km to the west), can be seen immediately after the aqueduct. This line is not navigable. The Canal runs close to the main N7 road for a short stretch, then past intensive farm land, over the Grattan Aqueduct, built in 1790, and onto Vicarstown.

Vicarstown is a picturesque village and harbour with pleasant canal walks. The two pubs are attractive watering holes for those who like a drink and a chat and they are popular for their traditional music sessions on Saturday, Sunday and Monday nights.

Approximately 5 km to the west is Stradbally, well worth a visit if you have bicycles on board. The town was developed by the Cosby family in the 18th century and it retains much of the charm of that era. A regular winner in the National Tidy Towns competition, it boasts a fascinating steam museum.

An extensive aqueduct crosses the Stradbally River on the last leg of the Barrow Line canal cruise. Bert House, a graceful, 18th century, gable-ended house, is a good landmark on the approach to Athy. St. Vincent's Hospital on the east bank was built as a workhouse during the terrible famine on the 1840's.